Start Here - Intro

In the spring of 2014, Susan, Marian & Harry, and Toby went to Northern Italy.  We visited Florence, Lucca and Venice.  We stayed for several days in each place which was great because we got to know our way around the city and were able to be somewhat relaxed.  That said, we were very busy every day, walking, seeing the sights, and eating wonderful food.  

In each city, we rented apartments that we found on AirB&B and VRBO.  (Thanks Marian and Toby for doing the research.)  This was a good choice because not only did we save some money but we were able to have breakfasts at home which gave us an excuse to go to the local markets and buy produce and other things to eat -- an adventure of its own.

Our two best trip guides were Rick Steves' website, as well as his Florence & Tuscany guidebook which Marian had purchased and downloaded, and TripAdvisor.  Their recommendations were extremely useful.

We found many wonderful restaurants and businesses so we'll be giving links and a shout-out to them along the way.  We hope you'll check them out if you're in the neighborhood.  

This blog will be in Susan's voice  but with editorial comments here and there from my co-travellers.   Here's the first one:

From Marian:  "Don’t try to see everything - I have finally learned that, when traveling, it is better to not try to see everything. We saw many interesting things on this trip, but also spent time wandering and looking at cities and people. We also tried to relax. If there was a long line for a sight or museum, we usually chose to do or see something else. "

Navigating the blog:

1.  I had to force it into chronological order so if you see a link for "Older Post" or "Newer Post" it's actually the reverse:  "older posts" means later in the trip, "newer posts" means earlier in the trip. 

2.  Links open in a new tab/window.

3.  Click on a picture to see a larger version.

4.  Use the Older/Newer Post links to go forward or back.  Also, at the bottom of every page is an index - one page per day.  And you can always get back to the home page by clicking on the big green header at the top of every page.

***BEST WAY TO READ THIS BLOG:  Start on this page; then click on "Older Post" at bottom of the page to go to the next day(s) in our trip.  Keep doing that page by page.  The order will be from beginning to end despite the fact that the link says "Older".   Sorry for that confusion but unavoidable.

Enjoy!

Mon April 28 - We arrive in Florence

I meet up with Marian & Harry at JFK Airport in NYC.  They had gotten there a few days early to spend time with family.  I flew in the day before and spent the night at a hotel near the airport.  Toby is meeting us in Florence later.

After a l-o-n-g plane ride, we arrive in Florence about 9:30am.  We find out we can't get into our apartment until 3:00 pm.  It’s raining and we are hungry and tired. 

We find the Mercado Centrale (Central Market), which is open, and people are having coffee and pastry. Vendors are making sandwiches and pasta for a bit later. We find someone who will make us sandwiches, so we each have one--crustless bread, with veggie, meat, or tuna filling. It doesn't look like much but it was surprisingly delicious.  We have our first cappuccino. 

We walk around the Duomo area. Lots of colorful umbrellas, and many, many people. Lines to get into everything.

We make our way towards the apartment address, Via delle Terme, 27, near the Piazza di Santa Trinita.   Finally we meet Marta, who gives us one set of keys to the apartment. We beg for another set, explaining the we don’t all want to go everywhere together at the same time. She calls Max several times, but apparently this is an impossible request. 

The apartment is beautiful, with very high ceilings and many mirrors. Also white leather furniture. The loft “bedroom” that I had planned to use is up a winding iron staircase, and an adult cannot stand up in the area. Fortunately, the living room sofa folds out into a comfortable bed so I am happy.  And, there are three bathrooms.  No complaints! 

Toby arrives that evening and we go to dinner in the neighborhood.  The meal was adequate but probably the least memorable dinner of the whole trip.  However, the vino rosso is fine, we are excited to be there, and all is well.  Added bonus....when we got back to the apartment, there's an extra set of keys on the table. Yea!  (TIP:  From this experience we learned to always ask for an extra set of keys which we were able to get in our other two apartments too, but only because we specifically asked.)

Tues April 29 - Lise, Walking Around

Mercado Centrale

Slept in.  Marian, Toby & I went to the Mercado Centrale to get fruits and veggies.  We bought strawberries, bananas, olives, peppers and artichoke hearts for appetizers later.  

Stopped at the TIM cellphone store to get a SIM card for my phone.  Cost 30 euros (about $50) -- more than I expected and it's a new phone number which I did not want and the instructions are in Italian when I had asked for English.  That whole experience tried my patience a bit but I'll get over it.  (LATER:  It actually all worked out fine.  It was good we had an Italian phone number because we used that for making local calls to reserve the apartment in Lucca, dinner reservations, etc.  And I was able to call my mom several times - no extra cost.) 

Lise Apatoff (tour guide referred by friends of Toby who had a great experience with her) came over at 1:30 as planned.  We had hired her to give us some pointers and orientation to the city.  This was a great idea and well worth the cost because it later helped us plan what we wanted to do and stay somewhat organized.  She was wonderful - gave us lots of good information -- history of Florence and the surrounding area, ideas of things to do, restaurants, etc.  She's an American who married an Italian man and has lived in Italy for 35 years. 

After an hour or so sitting around talking and looking at maps, we went out and walked around.  We are in such a great, central location that just our neighborhood had much to see.  Lise pointed out various interesting architectural features and told lots of good stories. We learned so much our heads are exploding (at least mine is).   






Here are a few tidbits:

1.  The palazzo at the end of our block is famous.  Bartolini Salimbeni Palace, a very expensive and innovative building for its time - built in 1520.  It's also known as Palazzo "per non dormire" which means "for not sleeping".  As the story goes, the founding member of the family was a silk merchant and in order to eliminate the competition he hosted a large banquet the night before a big shipment and laced the wine with opium so his guests all fell in a deep slumber and did not attend the market the next morning, which meant he was able to get a monopoly and make a considerable fortune.  On the building are engravings of poppies and the words "per non dormire" commemorating this event.

courtyard

2.  This same palazzo is an example of the style of Renaissance houses at the time.  The people lived on the first story and above.  This was for safety, as a defense against being attacked/invaded which happened a lot.  No one trusted anyone else.  For the same reason, the windows on the ground floor have bars, and this is true throughout Florence - most windows have bars, of many different styles.  The ground floor held the stock and supplies.  Often there was a trap door through which the family could see who was below (and drop things on them if they were enemies). 

Here's the courtyard of the same palazzo.  The roof is open in the center so rain could get in and be collected in a cistern under the floor.  


3.  Notice also the designs on the walls of the courtyard.  This is the origin of the word "graffiti" which in Italian means "scratched" (or written). Here's another building that shows both graffiti and bars on the windows.  

We parted ways about 6:00pm.  So glad we got to meet Lise and spend some time with her.  What a wealth of information and a really nice person. (If you're going to Florence and would like to contact her, she can be reached at liseapatoff@msn.com. - tell her we sent you!)  




Decided to eat at one of the restaurants Lise had recommended, Coquinarius.  Had a wonderful dinner:  crostini, and a variety of yummy salads.  Very welcoming and friendly staff.  Our waiter is on his way to San Francisco this summer so we talked about that.  He brought us several wines to sample.  Also some chocolate cake for dessert, no charge.   

Walked back home along Via Calimala.  Nice broad pedestrian street. Saw lots of young people - some playing music.

Wed April 30 - San Ambrogio Market, Synagogue, Notte Bianca, Uffizi

Marian, Toby and I walked over to the other, less touristy public market that Lise had told us about:  San Ambrogio.  Picked up some provisions.  Fun to see all the vegies and fruits as well as, inside, this wonderful display of fresh pasta.

Marian went home to get Harry.  Toby and I went over to the synagogue (Tempio Maggiore Israelitico di Firenze) which is in the same neighborhood as the market.  Very beautiful inside.  No photos allowed but you can see some online here.  

One thing I learned:  In August of 1944 retreating German troops tried to destroy the synagogue but the Italian resistance defused most of the explosives and only a limited amount of damage was done.  It was restored after the war.  

Later that day we all walked over to the other (south) side of the river to the Oltrarno (Ultrarno) quarter.  The name means "across the Arno" and it's a part of Florence that's tried hard to keep its neighborhood feel.  Lots of antique shops, artists, cafes and restaurants, plazas where people hang out.  Spotted a few good restaurants for later.

Tonight is Notte Bianca!  (white night)   Lise had told us about this - otherwise we would not have known what all the excitement was about.  On the night before May Day it's a big holiday - people in the streets celebrating, many museums are open and free, people stay up all night.  

We decided to use this opportunity to go to the Uffizi Museum (Galleria degli Uffizi).  Huge museum in what used to be government offices ("uffizi" means office).  It holds the private art collection of the Medici family, bequeathed to the city in 1743 on the condition that it never leaves Florence.  

Got there about 7:00pm - long line but we finally got in.  Started at the top floor and walked through many many galleries of famous and beautiful paintings and sculptures.  For example, I saw Botticelli's Birth of Venus and La Primavera.  Lovely but it was all a bit much and I was exhausted and my feet were burning!  So I slowed down, sat down often, and did not even attempt to see it all.  Spent about two hours there.

Back on the street and there were people everywhere!

Dinner:  We stumbled upon this little restaurant while wandering around looking for a place to eat.  Trattoria de Benvenuto   I had Gamberoni alla griglia (grilled prawns).  Everything was fresh and delicious.   The staff were friendly and attentive.  Great vibe among other folks having dinner - celebrating Notte Bianca perhaps?  Fun.

Then we rushed to get to the Orsanmichele Museum but they were closing (11:30pm).  Back to the plaza near Palacio Vecchio which was full of celebrating people and music and a light show.  Stopped for dessert and grappa at the famous and expensive Rivoire cafe right

on the plaza where we sat outside and had a great view of the goings on.  

Here's some video to give you a taste - it opens in a new tab which might be confusing when you are finished but look for the other tab to get back to this page.    

Watch the video (about 1 min) >>

Home about 1:00am.  Great day!

Thurs May 1 - Bargello Museum, Mosaic Museum, Teatro del Sale

Today is International Workers Day - a big holiday - many museums are open and free.  

We went to the Bargello Museum known for it's collection of Tuscan Renaissance sculpture. This is a large museum in a very old building (circa 1250) that used to be a prison (and the site of executions) and the office of the "bargello" which was like a Chief of police.  The walls of the courtyard (see photo) are decorated with the coats-of-arms of the city administrators who worked here.  Lots of sculptures - early Michelangelo, Donatello.  I liked this one of Mercury by Giambologna.  We didn't get to see all of it because they closed early. 

Next we walked over to the mosaic museum, Museo dell'Opificio delle Pietre Dure, which was fabulous.  The work is so detailed.  There were portraits, scenes, flowers and birds, table tops, as well as a display of some of the tools and workbenches the artisans used. Loved it.

Then home for a very brief rest before we headed out to the Teatro del Sale.  Lise had told us about this place.  It's kind of a dinner club - you have to become a member (7 euros).  They have 100K members from all over the world!.  We had a very unusual and wonderful dinner and show.

There is a chef who loves to cook for people.  They make a big meal several nights a week, with many courses, set out on a big table buffet style.  We were warned that there would be a LOT of food and it was true.  

The first 10 dishes were all vegetarian except for some tripe (a Tuscan specialty) [yes I did try one little piece - the flavor was very good but the texture and the idea were not very appealing].  There was beet salad, cooked carrots, lentils, potatoes, swiss chard, roasted peppers (pepperoncini?), cauliflower, a rissoto, greens/salad.  

Everyone said to pace yourself, go slowly.  I took very small portions but I admit I went back twice because these dishes were so yummy.  The kitchen is right there, behind glass, and someone (the chef?) would come to the window and yell out in a very loud voice what the next dish was that was coming in just a few minutes.  I think they hired him for his voice which was booming and clear.  

Next was a pasta fusilli with pork which I did not try.  Next came a bonito (tuna) dish, also good.  Then they cleared away the vegie dishes and the last dish was roasted chicken and pork and potatoes that I skipped but everyone said was good. Lastly was dessert: strawberry gelato - the BEST ever.  I would have had seconds but I was so full!  Also little squares of a truffle like chocolate cake with powdered sugar on top cut in little diamond shapes and you thought it would be too small but it was exactly right and so delicious I had a couple of those.  

But there was no more time to eat because next they cleared off the tables (everyone helped) and moved the chairs to one end of the room where there is a stage and a different performance every night.  Tonight it was two young Italian men who played guitars and sang, kind of blue grass, light rock, folk.  The music was very nice although of course we couldn't understand the lyrics - except for one Crosby Stills & Nash song (which one?) and another one in English.

When we first arrived, one and then another young woman sat down by herself at a table near us and they spoke English so we struck up a conversation eventually getting a table all together.  Deanna is probably in her 30's, former school teacher from Florida on vacation by herself because a friend couldn't go at the last minute.  Liz is probably in her late 20's, an engineer from Houston working in "oil and gas" in Norway.  Both very nice.  Both travelling alone.  I'm impressed.   All in all a very fun evening.

On the way home we went by the Palazzo Vecchio and the museum was still open and quite a few people still hanging around. someone playing music who had been there since we went by earlier in the day.  We went into the museum briefly but we were too tired and museumed-out to see anything really - even the Pollock exhibit which I would have liked to see but just too tired.

Fri May 2 - Capella Brancacci, Ponte Vecchio, Oltrarno

Marian & I walked over to the San Ambrogio market to get some food - strawberries, cherries, cantalope, tomatoes on the vine, all for 8 euros.  Then I headed for the Antico Setificio (antique silk factory) (watch an interesting video about this place), other side of the river.  But it was closed -- had tried to call ahead but not sure they got my message.  Also it's a 3-day weekend for many people here.

Capella Brancaccci

Met up with Marian & Harry (Toby resting today) and walked around Oltrarno.  Raining quite a bit.  Went into the Capella Brancaccci (chapel).  Gorgeous frescoes - you can see some close-ups here.   

Met a couple from Holland.  The man is a Medieval History teacher. He said the most beautiful thing he had seen in Florence was the frescoes at the Medici Riccardi Palace - that one had not been on our list but now it is for sure.

Still raining. Walked by the Pittii Palace (home of the Medici's) but didn't go in.  The place is huge and imposing, several museums there and lots of tourists.  

Continuing on led us over the Ponte Vecchio ("Old Bridge") - the oldest of the bridges over the Arno River and the most famous.  

Back in 1565 Cosimo Medici had a walkway built from the Palazzo Vecchio (his offices) to the Palazzo Pitti (his home) across the river so he wouldn't have to walk on the street among the riff raff.  It's called the Vasari Corridor (designed and built by Giorgio Vasari).  At the time there were butchers and meat shops on this bridge -- the smell was so unpleasant that Cosimo banned them.  Gold merchants took their place and jewelry stores remain to this day.  Big tourist attraction as you can imagine - why are people so obsessed with jewelry when they travel?  I don't get it.  

Here's another story about the Ponte Vecchio:  During World War II, as the Nazis retreated from Italy, they ordered all the bridges across the Arno to be destroyed.  But one man, most likely Gerhard Wolf, German Consul to Florence and an admirer of Italy's art, culture, and people, defied Hitler and refused to blow up the Ponte Vecchio. Instead the buildings on either side of the bridge were destroyed.  But the bridge itself was saved.  Read more here

Dinner:  Went to a place Toby remembers from her trip here 3 years ago -- Trattoria Quattroleoni on the Oltrarno side of the river.  Only reservations inside so we sat outside which we weren't sure was going to be ok since it was still raining but there were heat lamps and it was fine.  Had a delicious meal - I had linguini con baccala (codfish), Harry had baccala Florentine (codfish covered with sliced potatoes and tomato sauce), Marian & Toby had beef stew.  We all liked our meals.  For dessert, Mattonella, a chocolate treat (mattonelle means "tile").

Then home and plan for tomorrow - will get up by 8 and off to the Duomo which opens at 10. Hope the lines won't be too long.  We have a combo ticket so maybe that gives us some priority?

Sat May 3 - Bapistry/Duomo, Medici Riccardi Palazzo

Detail - wall of cathedral

Left early to get to the Piazza del Duomo area before the crowds.  Raining a lot.  Long lines for the cathedral (the "Duomo") and the campanile.  We all agreed that we did not want to wait in long lines even though it meant we might not see some of the major sites.





Here's a little video to give you an idea of the total awesomeness of the (outside of the) cathedral and campanile -- a photo just does not do it justice.

ceiling of baptistry

The Baptistry was not crowded so we went in there -- very beautiful inside. The building is round and covered with paintings.

After the baptistry, we went over to the Duomo museum which is currently under construction and not everything is available to see, but we were able to see the original "Gates of Paradise" bronze doors by Ghiberti that used to be on the east side of the baptistry.  (They were removed for safekeeping in 1990 but I remember seeing the original doors when I was in Florence in 1973.)  

I love those doors.  They are magnificent, not really captured in this photo.  There was also an interesting video about how they restored the doors to remove soot and dirt, and how they transported them - had to handle them very carefully as they are so precious.

Ghiberti door - detail

We are mildly disappointed that we won't get to see the inside of the Duomo or climb the tower, but the lines are very very long and we definitely don't want to stand in them.  This is true even for those who, like us, have a combo ticket.  Oh well.


Note:  If you'd like to learn more about the famous Dome that was, and is, an architectural marvel, I highly recommend this PBS documentary that you can view online:   Great Cathedral Mystery.

Next, we walked over to Piazza della Repubblica (the site of a Roman forum and heart of medieval Florence) thinking we could have lunch at the La Rinacente department store which has a restaurant at the top with a nice view.  That wasn't possible because the terrace was closed because of the rain (however see entry for May 5 when we did get up there before we left town).  Had some lunch and poked around the department store.


Then to the train station to get tickets ahead of time for our trip to Lucca, then from Lucca back to Florence, and then Florence to Venice.  That took awhile, figuring out the schedules, the different trains, and the money!   Mission accomplished.  At that point, Toby was ready for a break so we parted ways.  

Marian, Harry and I headed for the Medici Riccardi Palazzo where we would see the frescoes the Dutch professor recommended.  The frescoes are in a little chapel, the Chapel of the Magi, that was used by the family.  The paintings are quite beautiful.  You can see some photos online here.  However i would say that, personally, the most beautiful thing I saw in Florence was the Ghiberti doors - just my opinion.  

The palace is large with many rooms.  One room in particular, the Luca Giordano Hall, was spectacular.  Here's a photo and a detail.   

In the courtyard, there was a special exhibit by contemporary Italian sculptor Innocenzo Vigoroso that I liked a lot.   

Then we headed home, pretty tired.  The rain has stopped so that's nice.  Got home without consulting a map hardly at all!!  Very exciting to be learning our way around, getting familiar with this city.  Turns out (ha ha we just figured this out!) we are only a couple of blocks from the Palacio Vecchio!   Great location.  

Dinner:  Osteria Pepo, Via Rosina 4.   Excellent dinner.  Marian tried the wild boar (so adventurous!) and liked it.  Wild boar is a Tuscan specialty and they even have statuary honoring the beast.  Here Marian is posing with one. :)  

Side note:  This wild boar statue is in the San Lorenzo Market area where, during the day, there are many many stalls mostly selling leather purses and jackets.  These leather stores are ubiquitous in Florence and Venice too.  (I think leather is a tourist attraction in this part of Italy especially).  Very colorful.

After dinner, Marian, Harry and I walked around enjoying the nice evening.  We went across "our" bridge, Ponte Santa Trinita (the one nearest our apartment), through Oltrarno and back over the Ponte Vecchio.  Along the way we saw a bunch of people standing out on the street and wondered what was going on.  Turns out they were watching soccer on a TV inside a bar.  Later, crossing the Ponte Vecchio, we saw another crowd of people listening to a guy playing guitar and singing Sweet Dreams (Eurythmics song) and dancing.  Nice vibe.  

 
Walked back along the river.  Stopped for gelato at the store on our corner.  Another wonderful, busy day.