Thurs May 8 - Laundry Adventures, Palazzo Pfanner, Torre Guinigi

Time to do some laundry.  We found a self-service lavanderia (laundromat) which was an adventure but successful.  

 

Went back to the San Michele plaza (the one with the big angel on top of the church) and had lunch again at Turnadot, sitting outside enjoying the nice weather and watching the world go by.

Next we walked to the Palazzo Pfanner to see the beautiful gardens and palazzo built in 1660 by a wealthy silk merchant. 

The gardens are quite wonderful, with a big fountain and many sculptures.    More pix here on their website.    

In the 1920's it was the home of Dr. Pietro Pfanner, physician (he treated Puccini) and also the mayor of Lucca.  Some of his surgical instruments are on display - very interesting and made me glad I live now rather than then, although our doctor Toby said some of them look very much like what is used today.    

Interesting factoid:  These gardens have been featured in films - for example "A Portrait of a Lady" (view trailer here where you can see some shots of the gardens).  I haven't seen the movie, and it got mixed reviews, but I just added it to my netflix list.

Then Marian, Harry and I went to climb up the 230 steps to the top of Torre Guinigi, the famous tower that has oak trees growing at the top.  The climb wasn't bad at all and was well worth it because of the gorgeous 360 degree views of the city from the top.   View more photos on this website.

This tower was added (as an emblem of prestige) to one of the homes owned by the Guinigi family, wealthy merchants who lived in Lucca beginning in the 13th century.  It was one of over 200 towers in the city at the time.  Now it's one of the very few left.

towers of Lucca

On the walls as we climbed up to the top, there was a series of paintings depicting battles and other events presumably involving the Guinigi family.  Wish my Italian was good enough to translate so I could understand what they were about.  I have searched for more info about these but so far haven't found anything although other bloggers have noted them and wanted to know more (I'll have to write to the Lucca tourist bureau and suggest it.:) ).

On the way home for a break before dinner, we stopped at a ceramics shop we'd passed many times before.  It's on Via Santa Croce in the piazza near the Santa Maria Forisportam Church.  I didn't get the name of the place nor a photo, but the artist/proprietor was very nice and there were lovely plates, bowls and other things made by him there in Lucca.  I got a couple of pieces and so did Marian & Harry (maybe Toby too - can't remember).  

Stopped at Riccardo's wine shop to get another recommendation.  Then home to relax. 

Went out about 8:30 for dinner (eating late again).  Decided to try a place we had walked by several times as it is on the main drag, in the plaza near the ceramics store.   La Trattoria Nonna Clara, "La Casa del Baccala", Via S. Croce 71.  Nice homey atmosphere.  Lots of fish choices.  Huge portions.  I had Luchese style baccala which is codfish with tomato sauce and vegies on top of polenta.